I've
had many people send me e-mails asking how to paint cels and I thought
I'd make this little step-by-step
guide
for you. I don't really consider myself a pro, although I have painted
and sold a couple of cels. This is what I've learned.
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.007 Acetate |
| + |
Rapidograph pen |
| + |
Paintbrushes (you
need at least one really small one for detail work) |
| + |
Acrylic paints (I
recommend Ceramcoat) |
| + |
Toothpicks |
| + |
Paptertowels |
| + |
Tape |
| + |
I
use rough sketches, but you may want to clean your picture up a little
for line clarity. |
| + |
Be
careful handling the acetate, it scratches easily. |
| + |
I
use 9"X12" or smaller sketchbook paper for my rough original. That
way I can take it wherever I'm going and sketch whenever I have time.
I just have the sketch enlarged at Kinkos to whatever size I plan on making
the cel or I use a larger sketchbook and redraw. |
| + |
You
will probably want to wear a soft glove or have something for your hand
to rest on while you're working, as the oils in your skin on the acetate
can make the ink and paint bead up. |
| + |
Since
you are painting on the back of the acetate, turn it over occasionally
to make sure the colours are where you want them. |
| + |
Wait
until paint of one colour has dried before adding another colour paint
beside it, as the colours will bleed together. |
| + |
If
you are mixing colours make sure to mix them thoroughly so that you won't
have streaks. |
| + |
It's
almost better to mix too much of a colour than too little. It's hard
to re-mix an exact colour. |
| + |
Apply
the paint thickly. You don't want to see the background through your
character. |
| + |
I
recommend using at least 3 shades of any one colour for something, otherwise
your picture will seem flat. For example: If you are painting
the hair you'd have a highlight colour, a main colour, and a shadow colour.
This will give your character more of a 3D feel even though it isn't 3D.
This is one of the major (visual) differences between Saturday morning
cartoons and Japanese animation. |
| 1. |
Tape
the (enlarged) sketch to a flat surface. |
| 2. |
Tape
the acetate so that it's on top of the sketch. |
| 3. |
Trace
the sketch onto the acetate with the rapidograph. (Remember Tip #4)
I try to get all of the lines that will be on the finished product, but
I don't worry about line thickness at this time. The reason for this
is that sometimes some of the ink will rub off and you'll have to go back
over it anyway for touch-up work at the end. |
| 4. |
After
the ink has dried, turn the acetate over. (Ink is on the front, paint
is on the back) |
| 5. |
Because
you are painting on the back of the acetate you must paint in the opposite
order that you would using any other media. For example: If
you were colouring someone's skin using paints on canvas, you would go
in and colour the main colour and then add highlights and shadows.
In cel painting you must add the highlights and shadows, then the main
colour. I turn the picture over quite a bit while I'm working on
it to make sure that I'm getting the colours where I want them. Just be
certain the paint is dry before you do this so you don't smudge it. |
| 6. |
Once
your paint has dried it's a good idea to take a good look and see if you
see any holes in the paint where you might have missed or a bubble popped.
These finishing touches can make all the difference. |
| 7. |
Gently,
using a toothpick, clean any paint that might have gotten out of the lines.
Try to not scratch the acetate. |
| 8. |
Finally,
go over any ink lines that might've gotten rubbed off. This is the
best time to add thickness to some of your lines. You can also use
a toothpick to get rid of any mistakes in inking. Be careful though!
This is the side where every scratch will show up in the light. If
you were actually making an animation, you couldn't have any scratches
at all, because the lighting that you have to use to film would show every
one. |
| Q: |
Does
it normally take a long time to paint cels? |
| A: |
Yes,
unfortunately. It's best to wait until each section is dried before
painting another coat and before moving on to the next colour, otherwise
the colours will smear together. |
| Q: |
How
long does it take from inking, painting, and touch-ups? |
| A: |
It's
hard to say. It really depends on the size of the cel, the experience
of the person, and the amount of detail that you're wanting to have.
For me, I'm guessing, 12-15 hours. That's including waiting for the
paint to dry between sections. If you're really eager, you can have
two or more going at once. While the paint is drying on one, you
paint on the other. You could probably get several done in the same
amount of time, 12-15 hours. |
| Q: |
Is
this the way animation studios make cels? |
| A: |
Actually
I believe that most companies use computer programs now. Some companies
still use cels, and I think that they do everything pretty much the way
I've described except for the inking. They use a special kind of
copier to transfer the lines onto the acetate. They also have a set
size of acetate that they use with holes punched in it. |
| Q: |
When
doing pupils for eyes, do you paint them, or do you use the inking pen
for the black parts? |
| A: |
It's
best to use paint, sometimes I do both. Ink isn't as good because
it doesn't cover as well and it tends to scratch off easily. |
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are copyright © 1997-2005 Angela Cross
unless otherwise specified.
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